The wine smells of green-apple skin, fresh parsley and apple blossom. It’s zinging with tension, crackling with nervous electric current, leaving pyrotechnic smokiness in its wake. Tasted cold, the wine was rigidly closed, but it began to show more of its hidden depths as it warmed. I would put this away for another two years at the very least. It’s still embryonic.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2032
I loved the 2020 vintage of this wine and made it my Wine of the Week, but this 2021 ramps up the zing and intensity to a remarkable new level. From the Adriatic coast and vineyards in the foothills of the Apennine mountains, cool conditions and a 55-year-old vineyard combine to make a wine of tremendous natural concentration. The theoretical cross of a peach, lime and mandarin orange, it bursts across the palate with such verve, with a pink grapefruit tang of zesty acidity flowing through the finish. Fabulous stuff.