Some reduction still clings to the nose of 2021 Riesling Ayler Kupp Grosses Gewächs No. 18, but pineapple and orange shimmer through. This is from the steepest and warmest parcel of the Ayler Kupp. The palate is almost austere with stoniness, totally strait-laced, with the slightest phenolic grip. A pronounced pithiness on its concentrated yet streamlined body makes the mouth water with zestiness. Yes, a slender 2021 but one with immense substance that translates into understated but sustained grapefruit length. This has substance and structure and is a picture of quiet, unshowy understatement. A real long-distance runner that has everything in spades but still clings to its magnetic core at its very heart. Buy it, put it away and let the genie out of the bottle in a decade or so. (Bone-dry)
Anticipated maturity: 2030-2050
James Suckling 94
A very harmonious and well-structured dry Saar wine with a ton of mirabelle and fresh herbal aromas. The fine tannins underline all this beautifully. Long silky finish for a 2021 dry riesling. Sustainable. Drink or hold.