Robert Parker 94
The Il Poggione 2018 Brunello di Montalcino reveals a dark and savory character with more fruit weight and concentration than you might find in many of its peers. This wine shows a dense center of gravity that is padded with dark cherry, blackberry, toasted spice, mahogany smoked meat and tilled earth. Despite the robust aromas, this Sangiovese is actually quite streamlined and polished in texture. The tannins are soft and veering toward accessibility. This is an ambitious production of 200,000 bottles. The estate’s Riserva Vigna Paganelli was not made in 2018, so fruit from that wine went here instead.
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2040
Impressing from the first tilt of the glass, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino makes itself known, with a heady burst of exotic spice and crushed ashen stone giving way to dried black cherries and grilled herbs. This combines the energy of the vintage with the dark balsamic-tinged fruits of Montalcino’s southern reaches, as zesty acidity maintains balance throughout, and flinty minerals saturate toward the close. It finishes long, savory and structured, yet its tannins are more rounded than anticipated, creating both a classic feel, but also leaving a mouthwatering sensation that tricks the taster back to the glass for more. Easily one of the top wines of the vintage, the 2018 is not to be missed.
Anticipated maturity: 2026-2036
James Suckling 94
This is a flavorful, layered Brunello with aromas of fresh and sour cherries, plums, bay leaves, rosemary and olives. Cloves and licorice, too. It’s medium- to full-bodied with firm, fine-grained tannins. Sleek and well-integrated, with a lengthy and deliciously savory finish. Drink from 2023.
Kerin O’Keefe 95
Balsamic notes recalling camphor align with aromas of wet earth, underbrush, leather and ripe dark-skinned fruit. The palate has an earthy elegance, offering fleshy Morello cherry, game, truffle and blood orange framed in crushed velvet tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2038