Robert Parker 92
The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre is performing well in bottle, mingling notes of crisp green apple and honeycomb with hints of oyster shell, orange oil and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its ample core of fruit is girdled by bright acids, before concluding with a saline finish.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050
This is perhaps the most elegant and floral-infused wine in the range with its array of various white flower scents, especially acacia that are nuanced by wisps of ocean breeze, iodine and algae. The restrained and well-detailed flavors possess a sophisticated and refined mouthfeel while the stony and chiseled finish exhibiting excellent persistence on the bone-dry finish. This is class in a glass and a stunning rendition of the appellation though note well that at least moderate patience is strongly advised.
The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a touch more tropical fruit on the nose compared to the Les Butteaux, offering faint passion fruit, white peach and apricot scents with aeration. Lovely definition. The palate is well balanced with a slight waxiness on the entry, and a little pithy in style. Hints of yellow plum and spices emerge toward a finish that develops an appealing creamy texture with time. Excellent. But personally I prefer the nervosité of the Butteaux.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2032