Robert Parker 94
The 2009 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos Lanson is showing beautifully, mingling aromas of pear, green apple and citrus oil with hints of fresh pastry, sourdough and nutmeg. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it’s deep and incisive, with lovely tension and chalky back-end grip, concluding with a long and penetrating finish. 2009 marks the third vintage of biodynamic farming for this small, one-hectare vineyard.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040
Jane Anson 98
Clos Lanson is unusual for making a vintage every year because this 1ha pure Chardonnay plot is in a warm, early-ripening location. Even visually it looks wonderfully bright, greengage/pale silver in colour, with a silky texture and fresh aromatics of apricot blossom and citrus zest. On the palate, you get quince, apricot pit, stone fruits, citrus, white truffle and honeysuckle, just gorgeous layers with grip, tension, and a natural richness that allows them to keep dosage on the low side. Full of generosity and finesse, this will easily last at least another decade. As it opens, walnut, frangipane and flaky pastry notes appear, and it grips on. First time on the Place for this wine. Tasted twice. Winemaker Hervé Dantan. 3g/l dosage, disgorged May 2022, so this will benefit from another year in bottle. They are releasing the 2009 before the cooler 2008 vintage. Vinified in Agonne-forest barrels (the only Lanson cuvée to do so), no new oak, 12 years ageing in cellars
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2040
A new addition to the Place de Bordeaux this year from the 1ha-walled Chardonnay vineyard in the centre of Reims. A gorgeous toasted buttery nose filled with hazelnuts, lemon rind, orange skin and acaia – all subtly combined but giving complexity and nuance. Instantly salivating on the palate, unctuous yet so delicate in terms of power and heaviness. Generous with a velvet sensation to the bubbles and a slightly chalky finish. Bright and lifted – a joyous combination of citrus – lemon and orange acidity, honeysuckle flowers and stone fruits, balanced by a touch of bitterness and a hint of salty minerality. Such complexity and overall enjoyment to be found here – utterly charming and confident at the same time. The flavours totally envelop the mouth yet the overall expression is finessed and elegant. Drink now (in a wine glass) to savour the fresh zestiness or cellar for decades. A limited production of 7,000 bottles. Aged 12 years on the lees. Disgorged May 2022. 3g/l dosage. The cooler 2008 vintage will be released after this.