The 2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has long been one of my favorites from Sylvain Pitiot’s reign. It was picked October 3–6 at 29.2hlha with 13.58° alcohol, then matured for 17 months in new oak. For the first time, most of the cuvées included 30% to 50% whole bunches, one cuvée 100%. It has long been more open and welcoming on the nose compared to other vintages, featuring brambly red fruit, forest floor and light black truffle scents that become smokier with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple and abraded tannins, turning savory with aeration and revealing hints of meat juices toward the saline finish. While it might lack finesse, it does sport considerable length and should offer another 15–20 years of drinking pleasure. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038
Robert Parker 96
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot’s retirement from the domaine, the 2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has an open and generous bouquet with wild brambly fruit, crushed strawberry, mineral and woodland scents. This is gentler than the 2009 or 2010, more open for business perhaps. The palate is (again) wonderfully balanced with rounded tannin. There is a savory edge here, a slight meatiness developing and a suggestion of Italian cured meats towards the finish, plus a saline edge. It feels satisfyingly long in the mouth with spice notes tingling right on the end of the aftertaste. Do not underestimate this excellent Clos de Tart, surely destined to be overshadowed by the 2009.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040