Robert Parker 94
Vincent Dauvissat’s 2004 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is evolving very slowly, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, beeswax, iodine and crisp orchard fruit. Full-bodied, layered and vibrant, with chalky structure and racy acids, it’s still a few years from real maturity.
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044
Cool, pure aromas of citrus skin, white flowers, crushed stone and violet. Suave on entry, then classy and sharply delineated in the middle, with almost painful cut to the nervy flavors of citrus zest, minerals and juniper berry. Mounts slowly and inexorably, bathing the palate in minerals and lingering with great subtlety. I would not be surprised to see this rate a 95-point score with extended bottle aging.