(made from mostly grand cru chardonnay grown in Oger, Melsnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and some from premier cru Vertus; L138210-3002126): Vivid gold. Heady aromas of candied citrus fruits, flowers, truffle, gingerbread and iodine, with an intensely smoky overtone. Deep, pungent and palate-staining, with the orchard and pit fruit flavors reaching every corner of the palate and showing impressive power without any excess weight. Even more extroverted than last year’s release, finishing with excellent cling and lingering smokiness.
Robert Parker 95
Deep, pure and fresh on the fruit-intense and complex nose, the 1995 Blanc des Millenaires is still young and incredibly fresh on the palate. This is refreshingly pure, concentrated, fruity and perfectly round Champagne that reveals a great tension and mineral complexity. It also has a long and salty finish. Keep it for ten or 20 years.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2034
Disgorged 2015. Daniel Thibault was so confident of the quality and longevity of this wine that he made 10 times the amount his boss suggested (on the basis that presidents of champagne companies change much more frequently than chefs de cave). Very little bottle variation apparently. Some of the vast lots are disgorged every year in summer. Still greenish gold. Still lots of freshness on the nose. Noble and magnificent. Savoury and yet lacy. Full phenolic ripeness (a bit more than 2004, which is currently embargoed). Dances on the palate. Lovely, very lightly toasty, mature Chardonnay flavours but definitely tight-knit champagne not burgundy! So clean.
Anticipated maturity: 2006-2026